Pre-hung doors that come from the manufacturer are installed in the door frame. Pre-hung doors are purchased with hinges attached to the door and frame, unlike traditional doors that come without a frame and hinges. Pre-hinged doors are easier to install than traditional doors, because the door arrives at your place already integrated in the door frame, eliminating the need for accurate measurements to prevent tearing between the door and the frame. Follow these steps to install a pre-hinged door.
Installation of the interior door
We started by fixing the hinges on the box and the canvas of each door. The hinges were installed in grooves made using a milling cutter in the form of loops. The milling cutter leaves the edges of the groove rounded, so the right angles necessary for the hinges are chosen using a chisel. The door block is white, and so that the trimmed parts are not visible from the room, they are covered with the same paint that the block was painted in the workshop.
|To install the loops in the box and the blade, the grooves are selected according to the shape of the loops.|
|The milling cutter makes the edges of the groove rounded, and since the loops have right angles, the groove along the edges is additionally modified with a chisel|
After drying, the paints were fixed loops (two on one canvas). Each was fixed with eight screws: four to the canvas and four to the box. The holes for the fasteners were pre-drilled with a drill, using a drill of a smaller diameter than the self-tapping screws, in order to exclude wood chips when they are screwed. The groove for the locking mechanism was performed as follows: first, with a drill with feather drills, a number of holes were made to the depth of the castle, then to avoid chipping, the edges of the groove were chisel, and then they were given the final shape on the milling machine.
|Before fixing the door hinges, holes were drilled in the canvas to avoid possible wood chips when twisting screws|
|To create a groove for the lock, a series of holes was first drilled. After which, with a chisel and a milling cutter, they finally formed it|
|The lock mechanism was installed in the prepared groove, turning the tongue in the necessary direction, it depends on the direction of the door opening|
|A handle and a latch were installed in the holes drilled in the canvas. The handle is fixed so that it is strictly horizontal|
Next, drilled holes for the handle and latches. The handle was fixed to the canvas with three self-tapping screws, so that its back was parallel to the horizon or slightly raised at an angle above it, but in no case is not lowered - it would look ugly.
Then they started assembling the box and fitting it to the dimensions of the opening. Details of the box were fastened together by self-tapping screws, while the horizontal element rests on the vertical ones due to the recesses in the latter. The uprights were slightly shortened to provide the required clearance between the door leaf and the floor - 10 mm.
When mounting the boxes, they were first set in level and fixed with wooden blocks in the opening its corners (horizontal element), then the stands were also exposed and fixed. Alignment of the box was carried out due to the displacement of the lower parts of the vertical supports in the direction of the canvas or opening. At the same time, they achieved a narthex (the fit of the canvas to the box) with minimal gaps around the perimeter of the door.
|The longitudinal and transverse elements of the box were fixed with self-tapping screws, after which the entire structure was inserted into the opening|
|Setting the level of the box and the canvas is one of the most important steps in installing a door. The box was aligned, moving its lower parts|
|When aligning a double-leaf door, one leaf was exposed relative to the other, achieving a vestibule without distortions|
|The box was fixed in the aperture using self-tapping screws, and then it was foamed with a mounting foam, which was applied so that it partially went outside the box|
When installing a double-leaf door, the alignment process was more difficult, because one had to set one canvas relative to another. The box was rigidly fixed in the opening using self-tapping screws and mounting foam. For reliable fastening of the box, it is necessary that the distance between it and the opening is from 1 to 2 cm. If the gap is larger, the foam layer will be thicker, and therefore it will dry longer.
Since the walls of the room were already covered with wallpaper, strips of masking tape were glued to the wall along the perimeter of the box, preventing foam from sticking to the wallpaper. Please note: the use of ordinary stationery transparent (or white) adhesive tape is unacceptable due to significant adhesion to the base, and when removing it, you can partially tear off the finish of the walls (wallpaper, paint, etc.). Moreover, the adhesive tape must be removed after a maximum of an hour, when the foam is slightly hardened, so that it does not tightly adhere to the surface.
To accelerate the installation, a quick-drying polyurethane foam was used that completely hardens in 12 hours (for ordinary foam this period is about a day). Foam during application must necessarily go slightly outside the box, due to which it is glued over the entire area. After the foam had completely dried, its excess was cut off with a knife.
|So that the fresh foam does not stick to the new wallpaper, they are glued with masking tape, which is removed after hardening and cutting the foam|
|The door platbands were fastened with nails, the caps of which were additionally deepened and a layer of sealant was applied over them, and then paint in the color of the door block|
As a rule, wooden blocks, which fix the box to the opening during alignment, after hardening the foam, partially dismantle (those that are on top of the horizontal element) and partially leave (installed on the sides of the vertical posts), cutting off their protruding parts with a hacksaw. So they did in this case.
Platbands made of solid oak, painted in the color of the door, were attached to the wall with colorless silicone sealant, and galvanized nails (at least 3 pcs. For longitudinal parts and 2 pcs. For transverse) to the box. Sealants also missed the joints of the strips. The nails were deepened so that their hats were inside the clypeus at a distance of 0.5 mm from the surface. Then the holes were filled with sealant and painted over with the color of the door.
At the double-leaf door - glass panels that were installed on the object. Each panel was sandwiched between two wooden frames. The first of them is fixed on the canvas in the workshop. A colorless silicone sealant was applied to this frame throughout the entire area (along the perimeter and at the crosshairs) and the glass was pressed tightly against it. Then they smeared the crosshairs of the second frame with sealant and also pressed the glass with it. Then around the perimeter it was fixed with thin nails, recessing the hats, smearing the recesses with sealant and painting.
First of all, do the door frame assembly. Cut out the side posts and the upper cross member according to the size of the blade. If you leave a gap of 5 mm, you can eliminate friction of the door on the box and its jamming. Using screws, fasten the structural parts together.
Now you can start installing the loops. First of all, cut them into the door leaf at a distance of 20 cm from the upper and lower edges. If the door you bought has a lot of weight, then cut the third hinge. It should be fixed 20 cm below the upper loop.
In order to make a notch under the hinge, attach it to the end of the door and circle along the contour.
Now work with a chisel, while the depth of the notch should exactly match the thickness of the loop.
Do the same with the door frame. To determine the places of the recesses on the box, you need to attach a canvas to it. Fasten the hinges with screws.
Note! To avoid splitting the blade, pre-drill mounting holes for self-tapping screws.
Note! Be careful, because the loops should be placed very accurately!
After collecting the box, proceed with its installation and fixing in the opening. Remove any stucco and cement left over after dismantling the unusable door. At this stage, be extremely careful, because the life of the new door will depend on how you install the box. Even the smallest oversight will cause the door to jam and rub against the box, and this is fraught with unpleasant consequences.
After you have inserted the box into the opening, it is necessary to precisely level it using the level, and it is important to do this in both planes. Moreover, you must make sure that the installation is correct by measuring the lengths between the side posts near the hinges. The indicated distances must correspond exactly to each other. To fix the structure, drive in wooden wedges into the slots formed at the corners.
Now drill the mounting holes. Using the anchor bolts, secure the box in the opening. To mask the resulting holes in the structure, you can use decorative corks. Thus, you can keep the aesthetically attractive appearance of the door. If possible, make holes for the anchor bolts under the hinges, there they will remain invisible.
We hang the door leaf and cut the latch
If you correctly cut and assembled the box, cut the hinges and installed the structure, then hanging the canvas will not take you much time. To do this, you just need to put the canvas on the hinges. Now you need to make sure that the opening and closing of the door goes smoothly, without creaking and friction. In addition, you need to make sure that the hinged door does not open and does not close spontaneously. If this happens, it means that during the installation of the box you made serious errors that must be immediately eliminated. Most often, the cause of all troubles is the uneven installation of the box.
After you install the door correctly, proceed to insert the latch with the handle. To do this, you will need specially designed nozzles for the drill, with which you can cut the hole of the desired parameters. After you embed the lock, make sure that the door clearly performs its functions. And then proceed with mounting the strike plate under the latch.
Cut and fasten platbands
Of course, the box will not enter the opening with millimeter accuracy, so the resulting slots should be foamed using a mounting foam. Some experts advise to install paper or cardboard gaskets between the plane of the box and the end of the door. This, they believe, will prevent deformation and compression of the structure. Do not open the door until the foam has hardened! And this process takes about 10-12 hours. Then cut off the protruding foam residues and remove the wedges that temporarily kept the box from skewing.
Install platbands in the last turn, and for this take measurements, do this with all care! At the joints, cut these parts at an angle equal to 45 °. This will help you with a miter box or a corner saw. By the way, with the help of a saw you can cut the corner faster and much more accurately. After this, nail platbands to the box using the so-called finishing nails.
Practice shows that installing a door is not so difficult! Do you have experience in this business? Share your skills! Write us your comments!
This video shows you how to install the door: